See Hull from a different (and entirely legal) perspective, thanks to our aimless meanderings correspondent Angus Young.
A narrow gap in some steel fencing isn’t exactly the most inviting entrance to one of Hull’s most unusual public footpaths. To be honest, it’s more like entering a military check-point at the North Korean border. First impressions aside, this particular stretch of the Trans Pennine Trail is definitely worth a visit if you’re looking for an afternoon stroll with a difference. First of all, where is it?
The starting point for Public Right of Way Number 28 (There are a total of 31 across the city) is on Wellington Street, close to the Ice Arena. Look for an easy-to-miss signpost pointing the way. The narrow route zig-zags for a bit before heading across a set of lock gates at the entrance to Albert Dock.
It’s worth pointing out at this stage that a degree of pre-planning is essential before setting off because the lock gates are opened up to an hour on either side of high tide to allow ships in and out of the dock. While this often allows some fantastic close-up views of spectacularly large vessels, it also means you can’t reach the other side until the lock gates are closed again.
Once across, the footpath continues to zig-zag before arriving at the foot of a steep set of stairs. These stairs are not ideal for anyone with mobility issues but a steady trudge to the top is worth it because you emerge onto a steel walkway perched on a row of dockside sheds which stretch off into the distance.
Normally, climbing onto a roof like this would get you arrested. Here, you’re free to take in sweeping views of the dock to your right and the Humber estuary to your left. There’s also the shed roofs themselves, built in semi-circular sections like a giant wave rippling along beside you.
The public footpath should have hugged the edge of the estuary as it does at Victoria Dock and St Andrew’s Dock. But the construction of the transit sheds on Albert Dock in the 1950s left no room for a footpath so elevation was the only option. The sheds were converted in the 1970s for fish landing and auctions. These days, they once again offer storage space for shipping cargo.
The rooftop walk ends with another shorter set of stairs before a steep descent down another staircase The footpath at the bottom brings you back to within sniffing distance of the estuary and the eye-catching remains of Riverside Quay. The timber quay once stretched 2,500ft along the waterfront and extended 90ft into the estuary. It even featured a railway station for passengers and goods arriving from Europe and an ornamental clock tower which doubled as a hydraulic power station.
Opened in 1907, the quay was almost completely destroyed during the Second World War when it was bombed. Today, just a small section remains. The last time I was there, a lonely single lamppost was still standing on part of the old pier. The dozens of rotting timber piles appear to rise and fall depending on the tide, jutting out of the Humber like Hull’s answer to China’ s famous Terracotta Army. (Nice image – Ed.) A couple of seats provide a welcome place to rest and soak up this slightly eerie sight before setting off on the last leg of this journey.
From here, the footpath runs west alongside the estuary with glimpses of Albert Dock and William Wright Dock visible through more fencing to the right. Here you’re sandwiched between the old sea wall and a recently-installed new flood wall protecting the dock estate beyond. It’s a reminder of the 2013 tidal surge and the threat of rising sea levels.
Eventually, this long straight stretch ends with a sharp right-angle marked with some graffiti saying Lucky’s Corner. I doubt you will find this name on any official map. Then it’s onward to derelict mess that is St. Andrew’s Dock, or what’s left of it. A narrowing of the footpath and the sudden appearance of barbed wire along a building backing onto the route only adds to the atmosphere. It’s a 20-minute walk back to Wellington Street from here. A sturdy pair of shoes and a head for heights are recommended.